When we went to England, a stop at Winchester was essential to see Jane Austen’s grave. Seeing that there was much more to this small city, we stayed a bit longer so we could see a bit more. I didn’t really have an expectation before I visited but Winchester was actually a very cute place that we enjoyed very much!

The History of Winchester, England

For a city that’s quite unknown (at least to foreigners), Winchester has quite an impressive history.

The city dates back over two thousands years. The Celtic Belgae tribe lived at this spot for hundreds of years before England was conquered by the Romans. The Romans established a town here called Venta Belgarum (“Belgae marketplace”). It was one of Roman Britain’s largest cities until it was all but abandoned in 407 – but not before the Anglo-Saxons arrived.

The Anglo-Saxons developed their own town here called “Wintancaester.” The Bishop of Wessex moved his seat to Winchester in 676 and the city started to grow back its prestige. In the early 9th century, King Alfred* defeated the Danes and was crowned King of Wessex. Winchester was declared his capital. (You can see a map here of what area Wessex covered at the time.)

England was unified in 927 (you can see an updated map here) and Winchester again was chosen to serve as a capital. Some sources will tell you Winchester was the capital but it probably changed frequently, or there just wasn’t one. For the next few centuries, Westminster in London was built up and power eventually shifted there fully in the late 13th century.

After that, Winchester’s status and economy declined but it was never abandoned. Today it’s like an open-air museum of its lifetime, spanning over millennia.

I’m not sure if British schools teach about Winchester and its history but from an American point of view, even though we learn quite a bit of British history, Winchester is quite forgotten.

* King Alfred had such an interesting life and is one of the contenders for the title “first King of England.” If you have time and interest, do look into some more information about him.

A Visit to Winchester Today

William the Conquerer had a castle built in Winchester in 1067, aptly called Winchester Castle. Though the old castle is mostly destroyed, you can still visit the Great Hall. It’s beautiful 11th century architecture. They have a great overview inside about the original castle and how it was used over the years, plus an art gallery and a cute garden.

Their main attraction is the Round Table that King Arthur and his men would do routines and chorus scenes with footwork impeccable. Historians mostly believe that The Legend of King Arthur is just that – a legend – but the table itself dates to the 14th century, so it is pretty old. Though it’s not “real” it’s cool to see a medieval emblem celebrating such a cultural tale.

The Westgate Museum is located in the west gate of the old castle. If you visit the Great Hall, it’s a combined ticket by default so you may as well check it out. Inside is a small exhibition on Winchester but if you go to the top of the gate, you get sweeping views of the city. They have a list of landmarks so it’s also a good starting point for your visit.

You can also upgrade your combined ticket to include the Winchester City Museum. It’s a bit on the small side but it has an excellent overview of the city. You can see a lot of great mosaics from the Roman era, through medieval carvings, to some of Jane Austen’s personal belongings. I’d highly recommend a visit.

All 3 museums had a noticeable amount of activities for children. Or anyone who likes drawing and dressing up. We don’t judge here!

If you haven’t gotten in your castle fix, there’s more to be seen. Wolvesey Castle was a bishop’s palace built by Bishop Henry of Blois in the 12th century. It’s now a ruin but is actually quite cool to see. You can still imagine how everything looked since many doors and window frames are still intact, and the site has a bunch of plaques with visual reconstructions. It’s free and certainly worth a visit.

There’s also the city cathedral. Winchester Cathedral dates to the 11th century and is quite beautiful with a variety of medieval architecture. Jane Austen is also buried here. It does cost quite a bit of money to enter the cathedral so if you do, it’s worth taking the time to wander around and see all the gorgeous stonework.

Another icon of Winchester is the City Mill. A mill has been here for over a thousand years but the current one dates to the mid 18th century. Here you can have a look at the mill but what we enjoyed most was walking along the Weir, particularly as it was a beautiful day. Apparently there are otters here but unfortunately we didn’t get to see any.

If you’re interested in military history, Winchester also has a handful of Military Museums.

Winchester’s High Street has been in use since the Roman period, if not before. The Buttercross is a large octagonal monument you’ll probably see. It dates to the 14th or 15th century and is where people work sell butter amongst other things. It’s quite a unique monument. It’s next to the Pentice which is where the medieval buildings jut out to create a covered walkway. Many of the buildings now are newer but they still pay homage to this architectural style.

The street has a bunch of restaurants and shops to visit. Winchester is more local than touristy so you’ll find lots of clothing stores, cafes, pharmacies, etc. At the end of the street is a statue of none other than King Alfred.

The city is also home to the beautiful Winchester College but the grounds are private.

Buy a print of this photo from my store!

It doesn’t take that long to explore the city. Even after visiting all these places and having lunch, we were ready to move on by the late afternoon. I’d say it can definitely be done as a day trip, and I’d also venture to say that any more time and you might be bored. Winchester is very much worth visiting but there’s no denying it’s small.

Arriving via bus? Just a note that if you arrive by coach (long-distance bus) you will be dropped off at the park & ride. It’s about a mile from the center of town and it looks like it’s in the middle of the woods. If you’re looking at the bathrooms, look to the right and there’s road that terminates at a wooden gate. It doesn’t look significant as it’s a small residential road but this will take you up to the city.

We had a difficult time getting an Uber, and then our internet service didn’t work, so it took a while to figure out where we were going. Hope it helps!

Jane Austen in Winchester

In May 1817, after months of illness, Jane Austen went to Winchester with her sister in hopes of better medical help. Unfortunately doctors didn’t know how to help her, and after two bedridden months, Miss Austen died on July 18, 1817.

There are lots a few places to visit in Winchester for a Jane Austen pilgrimage. Firstly, you can see the house she died in – 8 College Street. Right next to it is P&G Wells Booksellers, and while it’s not confirmed Jane went here herself, her father did have an account there. With it being within such close proximity to where she lived her last months, it’s difficult to imagine she didn’t venture over.

As mentioned, you can also see her grave at Winchester Cathedral. There’s her grave on the floor and also a commemorative plaque erected about 100 years after her death. Even though she wasn’t known by name in her lifetime, the cathedral is her original burying spot. It’s believed that since the Prince Regent George IV enjoyed her novels, her brothers pulled a few strings to get her buried in such a prestigious place.

Also as mentioned, if you head over to the Winchester Museum, they have some artefacts from her lifetime including a small bag she beaded herself. The museum is very much worth a visit.

Winchester is such a lovely place and it flies under a lot of peoples’ radars. We really enjoyed our visit and hope this post helps you plan yours!

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