Monthly Archives: May 2018

Visiting Blarney Castle & (Not) Getting the Gift of Garb

May 17, 2018 lillyemma Leave a comment

One of my huge bucket-list items was going to see Blarney Castle in Ireland, famous for its Blarney Stone. Kissing the stone is said to give one the gift of eloquence, though the castle is beautiful enough to entice people to visit. So when I went on my trip to Ireland a few years back, seeing Blarney Castle was one of my top priorities.

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Blarney Castle’s History

Blarney Castle was built by Cormac McCarthy (King of Munster – not the author) sometime in the 1480s, even though I have to point out that the information given at the castle is different from that of their website. The castle itself isn’t known for any events happening there or for its history. The castle is now in ruin with the stone walls intact, like a skeleton or a concrete building that experienced fire. Even more troubling – or mystifying – is that the story of the famous Blarney Stone is unknown, as well. It’s said to have been touched by saints but amongst the dozen or so stories I’ve heard, my favourite is that a king saved a witch from drowning, and she cast a spell of eloquence on all who kissed the stone. But maybe that’s just because I like witches.

What we do know, however is that Queen Elizabeth coined the word – whether with a positive or negative connotation – over her correspondence with the Earl of McCarthy. It is by dictionary definition defined as n. “talk that aims to charm, pleasantly flatter, or persuade.” or v. “influence or persuade (someone) using charm and pleasant flattery.” As described by an Irish politician,

“Blarney is something more than mere flattery. It is flattery sweetened by humour and flavoured by wit. Those who mix with Irish folk have many examples of it in their everyday experience.” – John O’Connor Power

So there you go, a new word added to your vocabulary!

Blarney Castle

The castle is in my opinion a fantastic ruin. Even though it is in ruin, so many rooms and architectural structures are intact, and it felt quite easy to envision what the castle would’ve been like in its heyday. I wish there were more on the reconstruction and the findings of Blarney Castle because being inside, going up stairs and walking around the hallways, it felt like I could see what the castle had originally been like. It was very enchanting but also a little bit haunting, as well.

Even though I’m generally a fan of extravagance, there was something so nice about the simplicity of the castle’s architecture. The gothic arches and the crenelations, complete with the small windows and the rounded towers, really transport visitors back to the late medieval ages. A lot of the structures of this type are ruined to the point that you can’t actually go in or climb up them, and Blarney was definitely a more fulfilling experience.

The castle also has its parapets and dungeons intact and it was quite exciting to go around the castle walls and imagine what life was like back in 1446, when war over land and power was much more common than it is today. However, I must admit that part of the joy I found from visiting the castle is that I’m from America, where such structures are never seen, so it was very new and exciting.

The Blarney Stone

OK, so here’s my confession: I didn’t kiss the stone. It would’ve helped with my senior year of college, right? No, but the reasons I didn’t are as follows:

1. It’s common knowledge that you have to get on your back and go across a small gap to kiss the stone. When I got there, not only was I shaking because I was so far up and I’m scared of heights, but that “small” gap is like 3 feet wide! It probably wasn’t, but I spent a lot of time looking at it and seeing other people kiss the stone, and here’s what I concluded: little 5’1″ me would’ve had my center of gravity cross over the gap if I were to go and kiss the stone. It was a lot bigger in person than it looks in pictures.

2. I was travelling solo at the time so there was nobody there to egg me on, take my picture, or anything else. In America, we’re always thinking “positively” so I know at home, a lot of people would’ve urged me to go on and take the risk. I told the people working there I was scared of heights and they just said, “OK, then don’t do it.” Not surprised, but I definitely needed a little motivational support in order to cross a huge gap upside-down to kiss a stone.

You can see from the guy’s feet how big the gap is!

Whether you want to kiss the stone is up to you. It may be a tourist trap and pretty gross but it’s still a bucket list item to tick off.

The Grounds of Blarney Castle

My favourite part of the grounds was the Poison Garden because it was a bit unexpected and fit into the protective theme of the castle (even though the gardens come from a later date). It was interesting to see the gardens being kept up amongst a ruined castle. I went in February and it would’ve been cool to see it in the spring or summertime.

The gardens also have some water features, stone features, and floral arrangements around the grounds and a lot of them have something to do with witches, fairies and druids. Amongst some of the gardens is a cool dolmen which I didn’t think much of at the time. However, it is apparently a prehistoric grave! Isn’t that cool? I love when different times in history entwine.

You need to give yourself at least an hour to properly explore the gardens. I spent a few hours exploring the castle and gardens and there was still some ground I didn’t get to see.

The grounds are also home to Blarney House but unfortunately it was closed when I went. If it’s open, you’ll need to add more time to your itinerary.

For anyone interested, Blarney Castle is definitely worth a visit. If you’re into medieval history and/or fantastic creatures and stories at all, the castle is definitely worth your time. It’s a great, fun way to spend a day.

My visit to Blarney Castle was definitely one of the most memorable trips because of its outstanding architecture. I still have thousands of castles to visit but until then, Blarney is one of the most completed 15th century buildings one can climb about and really see. It’s an absolutely fascinating place.

Public transit options to Blarney are quite limited. You can drive to Blarney but if you’d rather go with a tour group, you can book one via GetYourGuide or Viator.

Have you ever been to Blarney Castle? What did you think?

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Destinations

The Medieval Town of Provins, France – Things to Do & Travel Guide

May 12, 2018 lillyemma Leave a comment

Y’all know I’m a sucker for medieval towns and the town of Provins, France, about an hour away from Paris by train, was one I definitely had to see. Provins is a medieval town that still has its preserved medieval walls. Because it sat at a crossroads for many trade routes, it became a location of several merchant fairs, for which it became famous. Today, not much has changed! It still has its medieval structures and it’s modernly known for its medieval shows, especially The Eagles of the Ramparts, and they still have festivals and events to celebrate the heritage of this centuries-old town.

Table of Contents

A History of Provins

Ruled by the Counts of Champagne, Provins came into prominence during the middle ages as its location was at a crossroads for trade routes. The city would hold international trade fairs twice a year, and each would last several weeks. This tradition continued for hundreds of years, from approximately the 11th to the 14th centuries. The fairs were the main focus of the city, which grew and developed around them. This sleepy town was actually once the third largest in the area. In 1314 the County of Champagne fell into ownership of King Philip IV, who heavily taxed the town and is residents. Only a few years later, the Provins fairs stopped and the city fell into steep decline.

The world has changed substantially since the 14th century but Provins has ultimately remained the same, making it one of the best preserved medieval towns and one of the most unique places in both France and Europe. Today the town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Things to Do in Provins

The town is actually a lot bigger than it looks. It has a lower town, which is a very charming French town closer to the train station. This is the bigger part of town and also a bit more modern. It’s also the more ‘local’ part of town and houses a lot of typical businesses. It retains a very medieval look with timber-frame buildings and it’s really nice to walk through and perhaps get some chocolate or maybe a coffee.

Then there’s the upper town, which is where the medieval stone walls are and where the fairs were held. Here, the buildings are still medieval but are made of both stone and timber-frame, with more of a cohesive town feeling. It is amazingly well preserved and an absolute gem. Today this is where a lot of the shows and activities take place, and where the tourism centre is. You can even dress up in medieval garb and have your photo taken if you wish. (Or you can come in your own garb.)

The Lower Town

The Square in the Upper Town

You can easily explore the city walls and the gates at your leisure, which I think is one of the best parts. Provins is like an open-air museum. For a small fee, you can go inside the Caesar’s Tower, the Tithe Barn (also called the Grange aux Dimes), Museum of Provins, and the Underground Galleries. They are small museums with information on the history of medieval Provins. Caesar’s Tower was a keep and is now an iconic emblem of Provins, while the Tithe Barn was a store/house combination. The Museum of Provins is housed in the “Roman House” which is said to be the oldest residential building in Provins. The Underground Galleries were caves with varying purposes, including storage for the fairs. All four structures would’ve been in full use during Provins’ height.

You can see from the people how tall the walls are.

However, exploring the city itself is a great way to spend the day. Because it is medieval and the city itself is quite large, there are a lot of different buildings and views to see in both the lower and upper towns, from churches to everyday houses to the impressive stone walls and gates. Be sure to check out the unique shops on la Rue de Jouy, some of which are underground. This is the main road of the Upper Town and leads to the city gate.

I don’t eat out in France often because of the limited vegetarian options. However, I don’t remember seeing many restaurants in Provins. It is cute but quite sleepy.

Provins is also famous for its roses, which you’ll probably notice if you go. If you go during a warm season, you can visit the Roseraie de Provins to see the roses in full bloom, but no matter when you go, you have to try a rose-flavoured something. I got some rose-flavoured tea and chocolate (delicious!) but they also have other things like candy, jam, and more. I went to Les Comptoires des Colporteurs and it was a really charming store with a tonne of gift options. I don’t normally tell people they should go to this restaurant or that store, but Les Comptoires was really cute. There are also some other tourist shops that offer rose-flavoured things throughout the Upper Town.

Rue de Jouy

So a medieval town that’s quite sizable, has a continued celebration of its heritage, and honours roses. Could anything be more up my alley? Add a zoo of dragons and this place would be perfect! But in actuality, I was hesitant to go to Provins since there are so many places in France and Provins isn’t incredibly well known. Alas it was actually one of the best towns I’ve ever been to and it made for an unforgettable day trip from Paris. It’s still very much a hidden gem and under the radar of many tourists. If you like medieval history in any way shape or form, you have to visit Provins because it is absolutely amazing.

Getting from Paris to Provins

If you have a Paris zone 1-5 pass, you can visit Provins in zone 5 for free! Otherwise you will of course need to buy a ticket. You will need to go to Paris Gare de l’Est and take the transilien train to Provins. From there, it is only a few minutes’ walk to the lower town. I advise consulting a map since the train station isn’t super central.
The town is easily doable in a day so it makes a great day trip from Paris.

Have you ever been to Provins? What did you think?

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Destinations

Machu Picchu: Day Trip to a World Wonder (Updated 2024)

May 2, 2018 lillyemma Leave a comment

Machu Picchu is one of the “seven wonders of the world” and even though Peru has a lot to offer, virtually all travellers flock to this citadel. Even though a lot of people have different feelings about the lost city, I thought it was amazing.

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A Short History of Machu Picchu

The city and its history are really misinterpreted. First of all, the city isn’t ancient but was built in the mid-1400s by the Incas and it was actually never even completed or fully lived in. A lot of people imagine something like Pompeii, a city of two thousand years ago that was flourishing until it vanished under ash. Machu Picchu was intended to be a university-like campus* where scholars could study agriculture, astronomy, and more. Its location and soil made it ideal for these disciplines. When word of the Conquistadors got to the city, they actually fled so that the Spaniards wouldn’t even know the city existed! What an interesting way to protect a city, and it pretty much worked. But it wasn’t actually an established, working town when it was deserted – it was still a work in progress.

* There are lots of theories as to why Machu Picchu was built but this one is the one the locals have accepted.

Also, Machu Picchu wasn’t “found” by Hiram Bingham. The locals had known for centuries where Machu Picchu was and when Hiram Bingham came in search of it, they brought him right to it. From what I was told, a few people lived in the area and knew the aqueducts were still running and the structures were still intact. What Hiram Bingham did do, however, actually benefited the local people. He popularised the site as a tourist attraction – one of the seven wonders of the world – and it’s brought Peru and its citizens a lot of money in tourism.

Important 2024 Update

I visited Machu Picchu in 2017 but it’s come to my attention that the visit has changed a bit since I last visited. There are now “circuits” in Machu Picchu that you can take, which are basically like guided paths. You can’t just walk around freely anymore, but this is to help preserve the ancient site. There doesn’t seem to be too much that’s cut from the site – just some areas, you will have to view from a distance rather than close up.

There’s a excellent maps on Machu Picchu Center that have the four different circuits. I basically walked Circuit 2 and would definitely recommend that route for a thorough visit, unless of course you want to hike Huayna Picchu, in which case you would take Circuit 4.

You also cannot re-enter Machu Picchu once leaving, so be sure to use the restroom and get a good meal in before your visit.

Visiting Machu Picchu Today

The structures are absolutely amazing and there are a tonne of them. Aside from missing roofs, a lot of the structures are still intact and it’s like walking through an Incan village. You can easily see how the city was laid out and a guided tour will tell you all about what the structures (and gardens!) were used for. They have a tonne of different temples and the architecture is a great sample of Incan engineering. The mountain views are absolutely spectacular, as well.

Condor Temple

The stone quarry

While the city may not have tonnes of stories hidden in its walls, it does have a stone quarry from which all the stones in the city came from, and if you look, you can see differences between the structures that were completed and those that hadn’t been completed or polished. It does tell you about a place that was being built before it was abandoned, and a place that could have been. It’s a shame that the Spaniards had to come because this place could’ve grown to be something (more) amazing.

If the city alone doesn’t spark your interest with its size and grandeur, the mountains certainly will. You can go up Machu Picchu Mountain and the Sun Gate or the mountain in all the famous pictures, Huayna Picchu. You can see spectacular foliage as well as views and even more remnants of a culture from several hundred years ago. The site also allows you to walk some of the Inca trail without having to walk the entire thing. Do note, however, that parts of the trail can be really dangerous. There are even guest books to keep track of everyone hiking in case something bad happens.

You’ll need a few hours to explore and a guide is very helpful to understanding what you’re looking at. If you plan to do one of the hikes, like to Huayna Picchu, each one takes several hours so you’ll need to allot a whole day for each one, really. The size is something that surprised me when I visited, so definitely take it into account when you’re making your plans.

Some people think the site is overrated but I think that aside from its lack of exciting history, the site itself is an absolute splendor. What makes it stand out from other sites is its sheer size and location atop a mountain. Its isolation from developed towns makes it really ethereal, and the mountainside seems much steeper in person than it does in photos. On one hand, it seems as if you can just jump and land thousands of feet below. But on the other, it feels like you’re on top of the world.

Some great testimony is from my uncle who thinks archaeological sites are “piles of rocks,” but he said Machu Picchu was “actually interesting, more than a pile of rocks.” So if you’re someone like my uncle, Machu Picchu may still be enjoyable!

Getting to Machu Picchu & Tickets

Aguas Calientes

This is so important because unlike a lot of tourist sites, tickets to Machu Picchu can sell out months in advance so it’s important you plan ahead and book your tickets! We booked 4 months in advance but check as soon as you plan on going to make sure you can grab tickets. Also bring your passport since it’s how you’ll get in!

Of course, to avoid the hassle of planning your trip yourself, you can opt for a guided tour via Viator or GetYourGuide. I try not to do organised trips when I can avoid them, but you’ll see below there are quite a few steps and things to buy in advance to get to the citadel. This can save you a lot of time and stress.

When I got to Machu Picchu, I immediately knew that I wanted to come back and hike the 4-day trail to get there. I’ve since had a lot of friends who’ve gone on the hike and none of them regretted it. The hike starts at Ollantaytambo and lasts about 3-4 days.

If you’re not hiking the Inca trail to the citadel, you will need to buy train tickets from Ollantaytambo to Aguas Calientes (Machu Picchu town). Note that you will be leaving from Ollantaytambo, not Cusco, though the two are close together. I’d recommend getting to see the town and the ruins of Ollantaytambo while you’re there, too, because the town is super pretty and the ruins look amazing!

From Aguas Calientes, you will need to take the bus to Machu Picchu, which is about half an hour up mountain. You can walk it if you want, but that will take a lot of time and energy. Plus the road is very steep on the sides and not very wide. I’d recommend booking your tickets in advance to avoid lines on your actual visiting day. There’s a lot of accommodation in Aguas Calientes if you want to sleep there before or after your trip. There’s a market and some restaurants there, as well. It’s a sleepy town so you can get some rest before resuming your tour of Peru.

You need to have your ticket to Machu Picchu ready. Even if you’re hiking the Inca trail and don’t need a bus or train ticket, you’ll still need to book a date for your Machu Picchu ticket, so plan accordingly. As I said, the best practice is to check when tickets will go on sale for your trip dates. The citadel itself deserves a few hours and you can also add extensions to Machu Pucchu Mountain or Huayna Picchu Mountain. Huayna Picchu is the mountain behind the structures in all the famous pictures, like you can see above. It also has some architecture, as well. You can go up Machu Picchu Mountain, which has the Sun Gate (entrance to the city). I didn’t do either because of time but both looked amazing. Please by careful when on the mountain because it can get slippery and dangerous at parts.

Make sure to plan what you want to do in advance and then buy your tickets accordingly. It’s a bit of work but totally worth it!

Again, to recap:

Get your Machu Picchu ticket well in advance.
Make sure you can get from Cusco or wherever you’re staying to Ollantaytambo.
Get your train tickets from Ollantaytambo to Aguas Calientes.
Get your bus tickets from Aguas Calientes to Machu Picchu.
Choose the circuit you want to take (I recommend circuit 2 or 4).

I hope this guide helped you understand what to expect out of your trip to Machu Picchu. I highly recommend it as something to see and a place to hike.

One other note on Machu Picchu is that there is so much more to do in Peru. I personally loved exploring Cusco and my favorite city was Lima. I can’t wait to go back, revisit favorite places, and make a first visit to several more.
A lot of people go to Machu Picchu and leave but it’s so much better to enjoy what the country has to offer while you’re there.

Have you ever been to Machu Picchu? What did you do? What did you think?

Visiting Blarney Castle & (Not) Getting the Gift of Garb

Blarney Castle’s History

Blarney Castle

The Blarney Stone

The Grounds of Blarney Castle

Pin This for Later

Book an Organised Tour

The Medieval Town of Provins, France – Things to Do & Travel Guide

A History of Provins

Things to Do in Provins

Getting from Paris to Provins

Pin This for Later

Machu Picchu: Day Trip to a World Wonder (Updated 2024)

A Short History of Machu Picchu

Important 2024 Update

Visiting Machu Picchu Today

Getting to Machu Picchu & Tickets

Pin This for Later

Book an Organised Tour

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