Monthly Archives: July 2018

3 Chateaux of the Loire Valley: Chenonceau, Cheverny, and Chambord

July 21, 2018 lillyemma Leave a comment

When my mom came to visit me in France, I thought a great way to spend the day would be to take a day trip to the Loire Valley, known for its Renaissance castles. We booked a tour as my mother prefers planned tours and then we set off to three castles: Chenonceau, Cheverny and Chambord.

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Chateau de Chenonceau

Chenonceau Castle is one of the most famous in the Loire Valley, and France, because of its location atop a small river. There’s no need to tell you that the architecture is absolutely stunning and definitely worthy of a visit. However the castle also has a really interesting history, as well. The site has been lived on for roughly 1000 years but the current castle was built in the 16th century and was given as a gift from King Henry II to Diane de Poitiers, his mistress. She was the one who had the castle expanded with the bridge, a beautiful and brilliant move.

When Henry II died, his widow Catherine de’ Medici seized the property from Diane and used it to entertain guests, transforming the gardens and adding a few additional rooms to the castle. There’s a lot more ownership and history belonging to the castle but these are the most notable people, and I’d say Henry II, Diane de Poitiers and Catherine de’ Medici are pretty big names in French history, wouldn’t you? In more recent decades, the castle served as a hospital during World War II and was even split between Occupied and Free France.

Inside Chateau de Chenonceau, Loire Valley

The exterior of the castle is enough to get you there! It’s an architectural beauty and a beautiful combination of Gothic and Renaissance. But I’ve said that already. The interior is much less mentioned but let me tell you that it is gorgeous, as well. Everything is so detailed – the furniture, the artwork, the interior architecture, the tapestries. One can spend a lot of time examining and admiring the details of every room. It’s a fantastic exhibit of Renaissance interiors that designers and history buffs are sure to enjoy. The main hall (the one above the river) is much simpler but it’s absolutely beautiful and timeless. It was like the echoes of people past still lingered in the room… but maybe that was just me.

Of my entire day, Chenonceau was definitely my favourite castle we visited, and probably my favourite in the Loire Valley (though I haven’t been to many castles there yet). The combination of beauty and history this castle houses are what I travel for.

Chateau de Cheverny

Our second stop that day in the Loire Valley was Cheverny Castle, which is probably the least known of the three we visited. An earlier castle on the site was also inhabited by Diane de Poitiers but in the 17th century, Philippe Hurault had it rebuilt in the style of Luxembourg Palace in Paris. The castle had no defensive features, which was unique at the time, and it was passed down the Hurault family for several generations. In more recent times, it is here that the Mona Lisa was hidden during World War II.

If the exterior isn’t super unique, it’s quintessentially French. Royal and sturdy in appearance, this courtly estate has a very intricately detailed facade and a uniquely shaped roof. I have to admit that it’s a little flat-fronted and neutrally-coloured for my tastes but it’s definitely fit for a noble family. (Am I of a high enough class to say something like that?)

Inside Chateau de Cheverny, Loire Valley

However the interior is a different story. It was probably the most interesting of the three because while several rooms were decorated in the intricate and ornate Renaissance style, several other rooms were more plain and romantic. I felt it was an interesting combination between wealthy styles of different centuries, and the rooms that were smaller were much more modern and calm in comparison. It made the chateau feel a lot more cosy and homey, like one could actually live there. It was more personal. If you’re considering visiting Cheverny, I’d recommend doing so if you’re into the history of interior design. For that, this chateau is a unique gem.

The Dogs of Chateau de Cheverny, Loire Valley

On the grounds, there’s a kennel that houses several hundred (yes, several hundred) hounds which are mixes between English Fox Hounds and French Poitevins. The kennel has been there for roughly 150 years to house the hunting dogs. It’s super cute if you like dogs but also a bit stinky! (Because, you know, several hundred hounds.)

Cheverny is a popular stop on guided Loire Valley tours but it was not particularly my favorite. If you’re doing a tour of the Loire Valley yourself, I’d opt to visit other chateaux first.

Chateau de Chambord

Chateau de Chambord is no stranger to fame. This huge Loire Valley castle was built by King François I as none other than a hunting lodge and was later completed by King Louis XIV. Fortunately the miles of forest surrounding this beautifully ornate castle are still preserved, indicating clearly how the château looked in its prime. Though the ginormous castle is home to an unbelievably beautiful crafted exterior and richly-decorated interiors, its most famous part is the double-helix staircase inspired by none other than Leonardo da Vinci.

If the castle looks absolutely beautiful in photographs, the sheer size and scale of it in person is absolutely spectacular and a must-see for architecture lovers. It’s unbelievably huge in person. The entire castle is festooned with ornamentation and with its grand size, you can only imagine how much architectural artwork this castle houses. If you wanted to take a detailed guidebook to understand the inspiration and meaning of every carving in the chateau, you’d probably need more than a day. To fully take in the surface of the chateau open to the public, you need at least a few hours.

The interior was also very different from that of the other châteaux. Firstly, the rooms are huge in size, making the spaces seem a lot more open. Secondly, they were for the most part decorated more in the Rococo style, with very intricate detailing but much simpler than Renaissance style. On a day of touring castles, it was a nice breather from busy patterns and heavy tapestries. However it was a bit disappointing that there were several rooms that were empty. I guess the castle is just too big to fill up but it seems like such a waste on the kings’ behalf, and they could’ve easily been filled with more information on French history, art collections, or something of the like. Alas I am not the curator of the castle.

Still, the chateau has lots of beautiful rooms and other places to explore. If you go, don’t forget to climb to the top to get some good views from the roof!

The Staircase of Chateau de Chambord, Loire Valley

Visiting Loire Valley castles is a great way to spend the day and one of the most popular things to do in France. One of the best things about castles in general is that they all have a story to tell, whether well-known or not, and the architecture can be vastly different, even from the same culture. A day amongst castles is definitely a day well spent.

You can get to each castle individually on your own, or you can get on a multi-castle tour with GetYourGuide or Viator.

Have you ever been to these chateaux? Or is your favourite Loire Valley castle not on here?

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Colmar, One of France’s Most Beautiful Cities – Things to Do & Travel Guide

July 17, 2018 lillyemma Leave a comment

Colmar is one of the well-known gems of Alsace, the region of France that borders Germany and combines the history and culture of the two. It’s rumoured to have inspired the setting for Beauty and the Beast but whether or not it was Colmar or another Alsacian village, Colmar is definitely a town out of a faerytale.

The History of Colmar

Colmar has been around for over 1,000 years but its history has been relatively quiet. The town of Colmar grew from the era of Charlemagne to 1226, when it was made an Imperial City. What I find most interesting about Colmar’s history is that it actually fell to Swedish rule in 1632 before it became part of France in 1673. I did not know before how extensive Sweden’s rule was.

The city today pays homage to its medieval and renaissance past while maintaining the sort of low profile it’s had for the duration of its lifetime.

Things to Do in Colmar

The famous picture of Colmar’s “little Venice” is probably the most common one you’ve seen and annoyingly, it might also be the only one you’ve ever seen – but don’t be fooled! This town is absolutely huge for the amount of old timber-framed houses it has, all of which are super colourful and date circa the 17th and 18th centuries. Some even date earlier. There’s a lot more to see than la Petite Venise.

Some other city highlights include the square with the Roesselmann Fountain, which was one of my favourite spots in the town. You also need to visit the square with the Schwendi Fountain, called Place de l’Ancienne Douane which houses the stunning Koifhus, or old customs house. Also be sure to stop by the inspiring Saint Martin Church and the nearby but much smaller Dominican Church.

Take a nice stroll along the Grand Rue and just admire all the wonderful and colorful buildings Colmar has to offer. A lot of the architecture is similar but there are some beautiful unique buildings as well. Some of the more unique buildings include the House of Heads, Pfister House, and the Salle du Corps de Garde to name a few.

If you’re into art, you can also visit the Musée Unterlinden which houses an array of Christian art. There’s also the Bartholdi Museum, a museum dedicated to the Statue of Liberty’s designer, Frederic Auguste Bartholdi. He was born in Colmar. Similarly the Hansi Museum is dedicated to the illustrator and cartoonist Jean-Jaques Waltz, known as Hansi, who was also a native of Colmar.

But the charm of Colmar is everywhere, like, everywhere. I was really amazed at how beautiful this city is but how little people talk about it. If you want to get into the nitty gritty, perhaps get a guide book or go to the Colmar Tourism Office to get information on some of the individual buildings and structures.

Like any other small town, I’d recommend walking around but with Colmar, definitely bring a map of some kind. I like to check off which places I’ve been to ensure that I cover as much ground as possible and don’t miss any street or square. With such a beautiful city as Colmar, you won’t want to miss anything! Also the streets are a lot more confusing than some other towns and it’s easy to miss some streets if you don’t have an idea of where you’re going. They also have boat tours, which is always an interesting way to see a city. However I felt the tour was very short and didn’t cover a lot of the city. Alternatively Colmar has a train tour you can take.

I was also pleasantly surprised with Colmar because even though it is a tourist town, it also has a tonne of shopping and a variety of different eats and drinks. I usually starve in France as a vegetarian but it was fairly easy to find things I could eat here. Be sure to grab some of Colmar’s gingerbread and a bottle of Alsace wine before departing!

The city, like many towns in Alsace, is also known for its Christmas markets. I went in springtime when the weather was warm, sunny and beautiful but Colmar must be an absolute dream covered in bright Christmas lights.

A Tip on Getting to Colmar: Colmar does have a train station but I found that booking bus tickets might have more frequent options. From the train and bus stations, you will need to walk a few minutes to get to the old part of town. To do so, walk north up Avenue de la République.

A lot of people think of Colmar as having its “little Venice” but it is so much bigger and more charming than just that. I actually prefer Colmar so much more over its rival city Strasbourg and think that the city is a great place to stay for a few days to make a relaxing vacation. I’d even use it for a base to explore the rest of Alsace if I ever go that route.

I really can’t wait to go back because Colmar is one of my favourite places.

Have you ever been to Colmar? What were your thoughts?

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Destinations

Dinan, a Medieval French Town in Brittany – Things to Do & Travel Guide

July 11, 2018 lillyemma Leave a comment

Dinan is part of Brittany, one of the most well-known regions of France and also one of the most interesting. Not only was Brittany its own kingdom for a short time but it’s only been formally incorporated as part of France since 1532, and the area also has its own language called Breton. Sadly, not a lot is available online about Brittany and its towns (comparatively), so it was difficult deciding which town to go to in my limited amount of time. However, I chose the medieval city of Dinan and was absolutely amazed.

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A Short History of Dinan

The city itself has existed for over one thousand years but its defining feature, the city walls, have existed since the 13th century, when the city was captured and became a duchy of France. Even the half-timbered houses standing today have been there since the 13th and 14th centuries! According to some of my research, that would make these buildings amongst some of the oldest complete ones in Europe.

Unlike a few other French cities, Dinan hasn’t seen famous murders, coronations, revolutions or incredibly significant events in the area’s history, but it still retains the structures and charms that existed there almost a millennia ago, and it’s absolutely jaw-dropping. There are few places today of the same size as Dinan that actually retain its medieval architecture – and it’s actually a decently sized town.

Things to Do in Dinan

Dinan definitely deserves a few hours at the least. You can walk along the ramparts of the city to take in some good views and also see the Château de Dinan, the city’s castle from the 14th and 15th centuries. It was built in 1382 by John IV of Montfort. It not only serves as the town’s castle but houses a museum on the local history. At the top, you can get more bird’s-eye views of the city. For another bird’s eye view, you can visit the town’s clock tower, Tour de l’horloge. Across from the castle, there’s a prominent statue of Bertrand du Guesclin, who was a French military leader and hero during the Hundred Years’ War.

The town is built atop a large hill has a few small squares towards the top of the hill, then has many streets descending down. If you walk down Rue du Jerzual – one of Dinan’s most charming streets – you will get to Rue du Quai, the street that lines the Rance River. Many would argue that this is the best area in all of Dinan, but the whole town is just incredible.

Though the town doesn’t have a whole lot to do for tourists, some more highlights include the Governor’s House, Porte du Jerzual, St Malo’s Church and Sainte-Sauveur Basilica. One thing you might miss is Jacobins Theatre, which doesn’t look particularly special but dates back to 1224! Walking along the ramparts and seeing the great view from St. Catherine’s Tower is another popular activity that allows you to see the city from a different perspective.

One small gem I found out about after my visit is the Galerie d’art “le gisant”, or 13 Rue de l’horloge. There’s a statue from the 1300s lying out front. It was found chilling in the building’s basement during restoration work. Just a fine example of the incredible history Dinan has and is ultimately hiding.

Dinan also has a Ramparts Festival every two years, I read, and the advertisements say they really go all out. It looks like a blast! This event is in July and even though it was lovely when I visited in October, many businesses were closed or had significantly reduced business hours. Dinan might be better to visit during the spring and summer months.

The town also has a tonne of restaurants but as a vegetarian, I found it very difficult to find something I could eat. This is typical in France. I didn’t know about these when I went but a Dinan specialty pastry is a Kouign Amann, which looks delish! (As French pastries do). I went during the off-season but what I noticed is that unlike many French towns, Dinan’s not overly taken by tourism. There’s not a wild amount of souvenir shops and there were actually a lot of locals there, and it’s so nice to see a one-thousand-year-old town still living and breathing today. There’s still local food and arts/crafts shopping to be had. That’s what I really loved about Dinan, is that it looks like a movie set but it’s not treated like one. It’s treated like a home.

With towns like Dinan, I recommend getting a map and marking off the places you’ve been so you won’t miss out on any particular road or building. I believe the walk from the town centre to the riverside is almost 2 miles, which seems very reasonable. The town is much bigger and more complex in person. There’s also so many little hidden gems to see, so marking a map would be a smart move. You can explore the whole of Dinan in a few hours but it’s also nice to have ample time to explore the roads and all the town has to offer. It truly does feel magical.

How to Get to Dinan from Paris

It’s a bit harder to reach Dinan via public transport but not impossible by any means. If you can get to Rennes then you can purchase a bus or a train ticket from Rennes to Dinan. Dinan does have a train station but it’s accessed by regional train only, so you’ll have to book your tickets in the area rather than in advance. Make sure your card has “the chip” or else it will not work at ticket kiosks.

Alternatively, you could first go to St-Malo, another great town in Brittany, and then take the regional train to Dinan. Something that looks mega fun is a boat trip that goes from Dinard and St-Malo to Dinan. I wonder what amazing things you can see from the Rance River!

I did Dinan in a day trip from Paris with St-Malo, and it was enough to see Dinan but not St-Malo. It’s one of the trickier places to get to but definitely worth it.

If you’re into medieval history or faertytale villages then Dinan is definitely a place you need to see. It’s an incredible town and many people will be able to fall in love with this largely undiscovered gem.

3 Chateaux of the Loire Valley: Chenonceau, Cheverny, and Chambord

Chateau de Chenonceau

Chateau de Cheverny

Chateau de Chambord

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Book An Organised Tour

Colmar, One of France’s Most Beautiful Cities – Things to Do & Travel Guide

The History of Colmar

Things to Do in Colmar

Pin This for Later

Dinan, a Medieval French Town in Brittany – Things to Do & Travel Guide

A Short History of Dinan

Things to Do in Dinan

How to Get to Dinan from Paris

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